Gaga over goose on Thanksgiving

In her second Advent-themed instalment, our columnist shares another story of brotherly love that has spawned a tradition, this one involving a certain farmyard fowl.

IT'S the season to gorge on goose. It might be safe to say that this is the German version of the wider-known American Thanksgiving tradition of basting and baking large farmyard fowl in the month of November.

While Thanksgiving (as the name suggests) prompts people to be thankful for life's bounty, the German celebration commemorates the good deeds of Saint Martin. Hence, even the goose (gans in German) that is served is called Martinsgans and the goose eating period begins each year on Nov 11, which is St Martin's Day.

Martin of Tours was a soldier who had served the Roman army under Emperor Constantine. He would later become a follower of a new religion that had begun spreading during his tenure in the army, namely Christianity.

The legend goes that on a cold day, Martin encountered a shivering, flimsily clad beggar. He took his sword and cut his own cloak into two, giving one half to this beggar who would otherwise have frozen to death. Later that night Martin had a dream in which he saw Jesus wearing the half-cloak he had given away. He heard Jesus say to the angels, "Here is Martin, the Roman soldier who is not baptised; he has clothed me."

Martin eventually left the army to follow this new faith and lead the quiet life of a hermit in France. However, his preaching and good deeds among the poor preceded him. When the Bishop of Tours died in 371, the people elected Martin as his successor. He was initially reluctant to accept the position, but was eventually consecrated on July 4, 371CE. He also holds the distinction of being the first non-martyr to be canonised as a saint by the Catholic Church.

So how did this saint gain a connection with geese? One legend goes that upon hearing of his imminent appointment as the new bishop, St Martin, who felt unworthy of this position, hid himself in a goose barn. The birds, however, betrayed him by honking loudly, thus enabling the jubilant crowd to carry him off to his consecration. A less savoury version suggests that the birds created such a ruckus while he said Mass that they ended up as well ... angsa percik.

Rationalists surmise, though, that this is merely a divine spin on simple Middle Ages pragmatism. Early November traditionally marked the start of winter and the end of the financial and farming year. This was when farm workers were either laid-off, paid or given a gift by their masters. This was also when the annual land lease was due. Geese, which by this time would have grown nice and plump and weren't expected to survive the winter, came in handy as either a form of payment or as pressies.

When this eventually coincided with St Martin's Day, it also marked the start of the Advent period of fasting before Christmas, similar to Lent before Easter. Hence, all rich food was either consumed or preserved before the fasting period began.

Then there's the Harry Potter-like prescriptions of various goose parts believed to relieve ailments from fever to gout. My favourite is the purported cure for epilepsy: drink a concoction made by burning a feather from the left wing and mixing the ashes with wine. And as with turkey, it was believed that if two people held two ends of a wishbone and broke it, the one with the larger end would have their wish fulfilled.

In modern-day Germany, goose is commonly served in most traditional restaurants till just before Christmas. The menu usually consists of either an entire roasted goose or just the breast or thighs, a salad of shredded red cabbage and apples, potato dumplings and (my favourite) glazed chestnuts. Be warned, though: you will feel like a python by the end of the meal, which is why a shot of fat-burning schnapps is often recommended thereafter.

Gansessen, or goose eating, has also now become entrenched as part of my German family's Advent activities too. It's a special dinner date that my mum-in-law, my husband and I eagerly look forward to, as it gives us a pleasant opportunity to catch up while enjoying this sumptuous spread. It is also the activity of choice of many companies as part of their annual Christmas parties.

Eating aside, it signals a time to wind down after yet another long year of hard work, and spend quality time with those nearest and dearest to you.

After all, as they say, charity begins at home – and sometimes with a good goose.

Brenda Benedict is a Malaysian living in Frankfurt. She hasn't worked up the courage to cook an entire goose herself.

Read More @ Source

More » Bonology.com | Pakatan Rakyat (PR) | Sociopolitics Plus | 大马社会政治